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Home Backup Power Sizing Calculator

Pick the circuits you want alive during an outage and get a recommended generator size, battery bank, and transfer-switch rating — computed live as you go.

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run surge
run surge
run surge
run surge
run surge
run surge
run surge
run surge
hours

Total running load

0 W

Peak (surge) load

0 W

Recommended generator

0 kW

Recommended battery bank

0 kWh

Transfer switch

0 A

Nearest standard switch size: A at .

How this is calculated

Each load has running watts (steady draw) and surge watts (the spike a motor pulls the instant it starts, often 2–4× running). Fridges, freezers, pumps and furnace blowers surge; LEDs, routers and most electronics don’t.

Peak load isn’t the sum of every surge number — loads don’t all start at once. It’s total running watts plus the single biggest surge-minus-running gap (usually the well pump) — that’s the worst instant a generator or inverter actually has to survive.

Battery bank size is total running watts × hours, divided by usable depth of discharge — about 80% for lithium (LiFePO4), 50% for lead-acid, so a lead-acid bank needs roughly 60% more capacity for the same runtime.

Transfer-switch amps is total running watts divided by panel voltage (240V split-phase in the US, 230V single-phase in Europe) — the continuous current the switch and its wiring must be rated for.

  • All selected loads are treated as running the entire backup window — a worst-case estimate. Pumps and furnace fans actually cycle, so real battery runtime is usually longer than shown.
  • Generator and switch sizes round up to the nearest common off-the-shelf size, not the raw math — you can’t buy a 5.28kW generator.
  • Defaults are typical values, not your house — edit any wattage field to match your own appliance labels.

Want the full walkthrough first? Read what size generator to back up a whole house.

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